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Small Batch, Big Spirits |
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by: DrinkGal and BarGuy |
| Tucked into a small industrial park lies Pacific Distillery, the makers of Pacifique Absinthe and Voyager Single-Batch Gin. Woodinville, Washington, is known for its many wineries and tasting rooms, but with the fluctuation in the distilling laws, we aren’t surprised to see distilling in the mix. With just one 500-liter alembic still used for creating both the absinthe and gin, the operation and production at Pacific may appear small. But with two great products being produced and word catching on quickly, it won’t remain small for long. Why do we like it? First, both the gin and absinthe are 100% organic. Marc Bernhard, owner of this family-run distillery, even grows some of the herbs himself, which includes wormwood, hyssop and lemon balm. Second, his recipes follow old tradition. The alembic still he uses was custom built for him by a company in Portugal that’s been at it since 1837. His absinthe is made from a recipe that follows a Montpellier style and was established in 1855. And while the gin is his recipe, it’s made in a pre-prohibition style, specifically London Dry, which is lighter on the juniper flavor that can be so overwhelming in contemporary gin. Third, from bottling and corking to labeling and packing, everything is done by hand. Marc told us he has his teenage daughter label the bottles by hand for extra money, and bottling day is full of family, friends and food. Marc became interested in distilling nearly ten years ago, an interest that started as research, turned into a hobby and now is a small business. Only open for two years, Marc still has his day job at Boeing to help pay the bills, but popularity and demand of his products is growing steadily and he estimates that he will be distilling full time sooner rather than later. When we arrived at Pacific Distillery, the team was in the middle of creating a batch of absinthe. Each batch will produce about 14 cases, and with the popularity of absinthe on the rise, we think they’ll be crafting this spirit more and more frequently. Marc gave us a tour of the space and discussed the process his absinthe goes through from start to finish, giving us a peek at what he puts in, what comes out, and how he developed his method. There’s not much regulation on absinthe in the United States, so he is largely unregulated. Unfortunately, that means that many distillers are unregulated, and there is quite a range of products calling themselves absinthe. Some distillers will simply add artificial green coloring and anise flavoring to pure spirit and label it as absinthe. We won’t name brands, but Marc says absinthe’s green color should come naturally through the ingredients you include in your recipe; we couldn’t agree more. The batch we saw being created will rest for 2-3 months in various steel containers before it is bottled and shipped out. Marc bottles on demand, and lately demand has been high, and they were down to just a few six packs. Why not let it age in the bottle? Some distillers chintz on the resting time before bottling, letting the absinthe “age” (or rest, as we learned the proper term) in the bottle, but Marc believes the spirit “ages” better in larger concentrations. If you have an opportunity to try it, you’ll see that his dedication to the craft pays off. The birth of Voyager Gin is actually a great story. Gin allows for a lot of experimentation since the spirit has no exact recipe. So, Marc began testing recipes, which ended up pushing twenty-four variations. Still determined to find and create the best product, he selected his top seven batches and brought in local experts for a tasting. Bartenders, restaurateurs, critics, authors and chefs were brought in to try the seven, plus a ringer that was a well-known, national brand. At the end of the tasting, things were clearer. First, no one chose the ringer over ANY of his recipes. Second, there were two favorite recipes left standing, made in very different styles. No one is going to produce two different gins to please all parties, so Marc did the most logical thing: create a twenty-fifth version of the spirit utilizing the best parts of the two winners at the tasting. And thus, the first batch of Voyager gin was created. We’re excited to see distilleries popping up locally, but we believe the state rules still need some work. Under Washington State laws, Marc cannot be classified as a craft distiller because too many of his ingredients are brought in from out of state. Craft distilleries, which must use 51% Washington grown products in their liquor, are allowed to have tasting rooms and actually sell their product on site to customers. Despite not being able to provide samples, Pacific Distillery does have an advantage. Craft distiller production is limited to 20,000 proof gallons per year. Since Pacific is not classified as a craft distiller, they have no limitations on what, or how much, they can produce in a year. And with Voyager and Pacifique finding their way into bars in Seattle, Manhattan and San Francisco, it’s only a matter of time before they’ll need to expand their operation. What does the future hold for Pacific Distillery? Marc says he might play around with either a Washington rum or bourbon. In the mean time, look for Voyager Gin and Pacifique Absinthe at your local bar and enjoy! |
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