So Fresh, So Cool
Now that summer has finally arrived, how do you plan to keep cool? Barbecues, picnics, and lazy weeknights at home all call for something crisply chilled, right? The regular standbys are there and will continue to be there. Over the next month or so, I challenge readers to venture outside the box and try different varietals. More off the beaten path and more obscure, these are sure to please. Trust me, it can be quite rewarding to show up with a chilled bottle of “how do you pronounce that?” when it becomes the hit of the evening! If nothing else, it’s a great icebreaker and definite conversation piece.
How do you define refreshing? Over time, in terms of wine, I have found the perfect combo residing in higher acidity levels and lower alcohol content. The higher acidity lends itself to that unmistakable “ahhhhh!” factor, while the lower potency allows for that 3rd guilt free glass! Another common thread with these wines’ flavor profiles being so refreshing is their mineralty. Minerality can be a little more difficult to identify at first, but can generally be
described as lean, crisp, and dry, and not the heavier bodied style that can leave you feeling sluggish. Following are my top 10 more daring choices to seek out and try this summer with brief tasting notes. I regularly stock these wines at Leschi Market, and have enjoyed them all recently.
At the market I feel like we are slowly turning the corner on the public’s perception of rosé being an acceptable wine to enjoy year round. (That’s a whole column in itself)! The fact of the matter is, however, some of the best rosés are done in such small batches that they are most readily available this time of year. Rosé is very versatile, and rare in the fact that they are able to pair with everything from light appetizers to barbecue to desserts. Three of my must tries are:
2009 Domaine de Couron Grenache Rosé, France, ($8) has been really difficult to keep around since it has been discovered and the secret of this little gem has gotten out, recently taking orders from 3 to 5 cases per customer. This wine has skyrocketed to the #2 overall selling wine by volume at the market over the last month. Not only is this one of the lesser expensive, most beautifully colored you’ll find, but the marriage of strawberry and cherry while finishing dry makes your mouth water for more.
2009 Triennes Cinsault Rosé, France, ($14) is one of the more elegant rosés to be found. Soft and round on the palate, it is delicately refreshing with light notes of rhubarb and strawberry. Once fairly limited, but while more is on the horizon, I wouldn’t expect to find this much past Labor Day.
2009 Weingut Hofer Zweigelt Rosé, Austria, ($16). Zweigelts are a difficult varietal to come across as a red wine, let alone as a delicious rosé! Only a handful of cases were brought to the Seattle area, and I was fortunate enough to secure a few of them for retail at the market. A unique winner with slightly savory notes offset by a fruity-tartness. Oh, did I mention this is also certified biodynamic? Definitely give this a go before my staff and I arm wrestle over the last remaining bottles!
Still not convinced on trying a rosé? That’s okay, the remaining thirst-quenching, lip-smacking wines are white: four imports (from 4 different countries) and three domestically produced (from 3 different states).
2010 Casal Garcia Vinho Verde, Portugal, ($7). Simply put: addictive. Crisp and fruity flavors of lemon and peach give way to a tangy-zippy mouthfeel. The ever so slight effervescence adds an entirely different dimension rarely seen in still white wines. This perennial best seller is hands down the best Vinho Verde you’ll find, and worth finding at that!
2009 Les Perles Piquepoul, France, ($8). Pronounced “Pick-Pool.” Hailing from southern France, this grape is an ultimate oyster wine. Bright, fresh, and citrusy, the climate also lends a slight touch of briny-salty goodness. Also fine just by itself!
2008 Schloss Saarstein Pinot Blanc, Germany, ($14). Yes, Germany produces wines not called Rieslings, and Pinot Blanc is one of them! If you are really searching to identify minerality, this is a classic place to start. Crisp stone fruits balance out with the light dryness to create a very pleasing texture on the palate. Normally this wine retails closer to the $22 range, and well worth it at that price, but the summer sale makes this wine a steal at $14!
2008 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige, Italy, ($13) is my go-to wine when pairings involve asparagus. Light to medium bodied but with a very clean and elegant swagger to it. The apple-peach combo in the nose is quite inviting. I also think the meaningful label ties into what the winemaker is all about and that his efforts that are put into the bottle show up in your glass. On a side note and for the record, I don’t get attached or wooed by labels, but for some reason, this one gets me! Getting to shake the hand of the winemaker every time I refill my glass? How cool is that, seriously.
Now for the domestics! We’ll work from south to north:
2009 Alexander Valley Vineyards New Gewurz, Mendocino County, California, ($7). Gewurztraminer, like Riesling, has long been stereotyped as a sweet wine. While some are indeed sweet, many are not. This wine has amazingly fresh acidity and a slight creaminess that balances out the tropical flavors of pineapple and lychee. This is a great wine to pair with spicy Thai or Indian dishes.
2008 Anne Amie Muller Thurgau, Willamette Valley, Oregon, ($12). You’ll be hard pressed to find many domestic Muller Thurgau wines in existence. The grape’s origin is Switzerland, but is most commonly found in Austria and Germany. What makes this so refreshing is the unique balance between being slightly sweet and slightly spicy all at the same time. Your taste buds deserve the ride!
2008 Trust Cellars Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington, ($14). Okay, so everyone knows about Riesling, maybe not that obscure of a varietal. However, THIS Riesling is not like others domestically produced. I recently tasted this against several other notable Rieslings with other members of the wine industry. We were all impressed with actually how dry it indeed was, and how much drier it was in comparison to the others. Stone fruits of apricot and peach show up front, but then there is a distinct earthiness and minerality that comes through on the finish. A truly refreshing wine to enjoy all summer long. This boutique winery out of Walla Walla should be on your radar if it’s not already!
Have a great rest of your summer staying refreshed. Happy tasting!
Kenneth Benner, a Seattle area native, is a trained chef and has worked in such restaurants as Barbacoa, B.O.K.A. Kitchen + Bar, and Dahlia Lounge. Ken is a wine buyer at Leschi Market. He has a passion for learning, a meticulous palate, and a tenacity for searching out the best for his customers while offering some of the most highly coveted wines in the area. His monthly column is intended to inspire and explore new choices in wine, learn about wine with his readers, and share his knowledge and experiences in the wine world. Check out the latest at www.LeschiMarket.com. Contact Ken directly at leschimarketwine@aol.com and follow the wine department exclusively at facebook.com/leschimarket OR twitter.com/leschimarket or twitter.com/kennybenny
